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Ayutthaya in the evening: along the southern line of the siege
In the last phase of the siege, the south side of the city was the line where foreigners fought alongside the people of Ayutthaya: the Chinese camp at Khlong Suan Phlu, the Portuguese community and the stronghold at Wat Chaiwatthanaram. This trip follows that line in the afternoon, as the sun begins to soften, and ends with dinner by the river, a night market and late-night rice soup, before you return to your hotel in the middle of the city island.
Itinerary
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Portuguese Settlement MapStart at the Portuguese Settlement on the south bank of the river, the community whose camp fell in March 1767. Some of its soldiers later served in King Taksin's army. Check the opening hours before you go.
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Wat Phanan Choeng MapWat Phanan Choeng, the temple of the riverside Chinese community, near the camp of the Chinese volunteers at Khlong Suan Phlu, which the Burmese broke in the dry season of 1767. The temple is open until about 5:00 pm.
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Phet Fortress MapCross to the city island side. Phet Fortress stands at the river mouth at the south-east corner, the passage by which boats entered and left the city. Stand and watch the three rivers flow together.
- 17.15Roti Sai Mai Abeedeen-Pranom Sangaroon (โรตีสายไหม อาบีดีน-ประนอม แสงอรุณ)
Stop to buy roti sai mai in front of Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya Hospital, not far from Phet Fortress. The shop is open until 7:00 pm and takes cash only.
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Wat Chaiwatthanaram MapDrive round across the river to Wat Chaiwatthanaram, the stronghold on the southern side that held out against the Burmese for several days before it fell. Its prangs by the river in the late-afternoon light are one of the most beautiful sights in Ayutthaya.
- 18.45Ayutthayarom
Dinner by the river, on the same bank as Wat Chaiwatthanaram. The restaurant is open until 8:00 pm.
- 20.00Ayutthaya Night Market (อยุธยาไนท์มาร์เก็ต)
If it is a day when the market is open, cross back to the island for a walk around the night market. Opening days may change; check beforehand.
- 21.00Khaotom Chedi (ข้าวต้มเจดีย์)
End with late-night rice soup on Rotchana Road. The shop is open until midnight.
- 22.00
Back to the hotel: Ayothaya HotelReturn to the Ayothaya Hotel, on the city island not far from the rice-soup shop, only a few minutes' drive.
The southern line of defence
When the siege entered the dry season early in 1767, the Burmese took the outer strongholds one by one. The Chinese camp at Khlong Suan Phlu fell first, followed by the Portuguese community and the stronghold at Wat Chaiwatthanaram in March. Once the southern line had fallen, the Burmese could close in on the city from every side.
Several of the groups that fought on this line were connected with King Taksin again later: the Chinese, who were the core of the army that recovered the capital, and some of the Portuguese soldiers, who joined his army.
Why go in the evening
The historic sites on the south side are almost all in the open air. Coming in the late afternoon means it is not too hot, and you get the evening light at Wat Chaiwatthanaram. The restaurants chosen are open into the evening, so there is no need to hurry. If you start later than this, leave out the Portuguese Settlement, as it may close first.
Tips
- Bring cash for the roti sai mai shop and the rice-soup shop.
- In the rainy season there may be rain in the evening; bring an umbrella.
- If you are driving yourself, take care at the bridge crossings and U-turns; check the route on a map first.
Frequently asked questions
What does Wat Chaiwatthanaram have to do with the fall of Ayutthaya?
It was a stronghold on the southern side of the city that the Burmese took in March 1767, about a month before the city fell.
Last updated 13 November 2026