Phraya Tak's Breakout Route by Car: A Half-Day Trip

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Half a day along the breakout route: Wat Phichai to Ban Phran Nok

This route follows Phraya Tak's first two days after leaving Ayutthaya: from the camp at Wat Phichai east along Khlong Khao Mao, through the rice fields of Uthai district, to Ban Phran Nok, where Phraya Tak rode out and beat a Burmese force. The whole distance is about 25 kilometres and takes less than an hour to drive, but allow time for a stop at each point. It suits 4 January, when the province holds its commemoration, or the morning of any day.

Itinerary

07.30

Buk's Red Pork Rice (บั๊กข้าวหมูแดง), Hua Ro Market

Breakfast at Buk's Red Pork Rice in Hua Ro Market, before driving across the Pa Sak River to the east bank. Stalls in the market usually close when they sell out.

08.301

Wat Phichai Songkhram Map

Start at Wat Phichai Songkhram, Phraya Tak's camp in the last phase of the siege. The chronicles say he left this camp on Saturday, the 4th day of the waxing moon of the 2nd lunar month, which is 3 January 1767.

09.152

Ban Khao Mao Map

Drive east along the line of Khlong Khao Mao, the way the force marched on the first night, the same night Phraya Tak looked back and saw the glow of fire in the city on reaching Ban Sam Bandit. Today it is a community and rice fields, with no sign marking the spot.

09.45

Wat Sam Bandit, Uthai district

The chronicles say the force reached Ban Sam Bandit after midnight and saw the glow of fire in the city from here. Stop at the temple in this neighbourhood to picture the wide plain east of the capital as it was then.

10.30

Ban Pho Sao Han, Uthai district

Local legend says a woman named Pho led the villagers out to fight and was killed, which is given as the origin of the village's name. The chronicles call this place by various names, such as Ban Pho Sam Hao. The story is a legend handed down, and is not in the chronicles.

11.15

Ban Phran Nok Memorial, Wat Ban Phran Nok

At Ban Phran Nok, Phraya Tak's force beat the Burmese who came in pursuit. Phraya Tak mounted and rode out to fight with four other officers on horseback, which is why 4 January is kept as Cavalry Day. The temple has a royal monument, and the province holds a commemoration every year.

12.30

Nai Liak Beef Noodles (ก๋วยเตี๋ยวเนื้อนายเลียก)

Drive back to the city island, about 30 minutes. Lunch at Nai Liak Beef Noodles; the shop is open until 2:30 pm.

14.00

Front of the Ayothaya Hotel: a white building with the hotel sign and a pair of guardian lions at the entrance

Back to the hotel: Ayothaya Hotel

Go back to the Ayothaya Hotel to escape the afternoon sun, then head out again for places on the city island or the evening route.

The first two days outside the siege

Phraya Tak's force had some 500 to 1,000 Siamese and Chinese soldiers, with officers the chronicles name, such as Phra Chiang Ngoen, Luang Phrom Sena, Luang Phichai Racha and Luang Ratcha Saneha. The Burmese, on hearing the news, came after them and attacked several times but had to fall back. At Ban Phran Nok a Burmese force of about two thousand engaged them and was broken. This victory did a great deal for the morale of a force that had just left a city on the point of falling.

The day-by-day details differ slightly from one chronology to another, such as on which night the fire in the city was seen, and where the force rested. The pages on this site follow what each source says, and say so where the sources disagree.

After Ban Phran Nok

From Ban Phran Nok, Phraya Tak's force marched on towards Nakhon Nayok and Prachin Buri, then down to the Chonburi coast, reaching Rayong at the end of January. That stretch is too far for a day trip there and back, but if you want to follow it further, the Travel & food page lists places in King Taksin's footsteps in Chonburi, Rayong and Chanthaburi, with navigation links.

Frequently asked questions

Where is Ban Phran Nok?

Wat Ban Phran Nok, Pho Sao Han subdistrict, Uthai district, Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya province, about 25 kilometres from the city island.

What does Cavalry Day have to do with King Taksin?

Cavalry Day is kept on 4 January, the day Phraya Tak mounted and rode out to beat the Burmese at Ban Phran Nok.